La Vida Española Part 4: Barcelona is Catalán for Barcelona

So... I know I said I´d write about Salamanca in this next post, but I think I have to write about Barcelona instead. It´s pretty much the coolest. Well, no, it´s not; it´s really humid and it´s full of people and I had had enough of those 2 things after 48 hours; but the ART! Holy majoly! And, in addition, there was the coolest bookstore I´ve yet seen in Europe. It almost rivals Shakespeare´s in Madison, Wisconsin. Almost.

We--my new friend from the trip, Brittany (from Carson-Newman College in Tennessee) and myself--went to Barcelona Thursday after class (by Renfe train--woo.hoo.) and stayed till midday Sunday, when we headed "home". It´s a curious thing how relieved I was to be back in Segovia; it is home, at least temporarily. At least it´s familiar, and smaller, and friendlier.

Our first full day in Barcelona was spent first at La Sagrada Familia and later at Las Ramblas and the Egyptian Museum. La Sagrada Familia was, without a doubt, the most amazing thing I have seen in Spain, and comes close to being the coolest thing I´ve seen in Europe. It´s absolutely breathtaking. I hope it´s finished before I die so I can go see it. The place was designed by Antonio Gaudí (who is fast becoming one of my most favourite creative minds of all time), who died in a freak trolley (I think) accident shortly after being given charge of the project. The church has now been under construction for 125 years--it is Europe´s Taj Majal, fo´reals. Here are some pictures of the exterior:

This is what the finished church will look like:


Gaudí is known as the master of modernisme, and took his design inspiration from nature. So the inside of the cathedral, for instance, looks like a canopy of trees, when you look up. It´s freaking unbelievable:


We went to the top of the completed spires for an incredible view of Barcelona. Perhaps I´ll be able to post those pictures soon....

We proceeded from La Sagrada Familia to La Pedrera, another building designed by Gaudí that you will all recognize as the emblematic picture of Barcelona (and to some, Spain).

We didn´t go in, but rather continued on down Las Ramblas, which is a series of streets positively FILLED with people, vendors, stores, street performers, music and all manner of diversions. It´s an incredible strip of city. There is an incredible covered open air market popularly called "La Boquería" (Mercat Sant Josep in Catalán, properly) where I actually managed to encounter ORGANIC VEGETARIAN FOOD! Oh happy day! These Arabs ran this booth that sold crepes filled with cous cous, carrots, eggplant, olives, tahini, and every other kind of excellent Mediterranean food you can imagine. It was like being home, eating that stuff again. Ahhh... And at this market there are all these booths selling EVERYTHING, but especially fresh fruit juices (I tried, over the course of two days, Kiwi, Papaya, Mango and Coconut--all fantastic) AND fresh coconut pieces, a whole pack for only €1! It was the best dessert ever. Pretty much. Here´s a picture of the market:


The next day we went to the Parque Güell, which requires it´s own blog entry, fer real. Google-image it and see what happens. It´s freaking unbelievable, and not surprisingly therefore, also designed by Gaudí. We also went to the Contemporary Art Museum of Barcelona, which was really cool. Outside was a multitdue of skateboard kids making a hel of a racket and using the front of the museum as a skate park, which I thought was pretty cool in a Bohemian kind of way. Inside the museum we only saw the permanent collection, which was inCREDible. Among the highlights were two art films, one Italian and one German, of which I did not watch in their entireties, for fear of driving Brittany out of her mind (not a "contemporary art" kind of gal, but she was very open-minded about the whole thing nonetheless). There was also an incredible slide show piece that was a series of photos from the WTO protests in Seattle in 1999. It was absolutely breathtaking.

Well... I have more to say on Barcelona, but not much money left on my internet time. More to come folks. See you in 11 days!!!!! Woo hoo.

La Vida Española Part 3: La Granja

Soooo... I have been graciously informed by my lovely Spanish professor from UofL that gypsies are rumanas because "many of them come from Romania and their language is Romani or Romany. The theory is that they are originally from India and have migrated westward. That's all Alpha knows on the subject...."

So that´s interesting. P.S., in case you were wondering, this particular professor is
(A) "Alpha" because she is the top-dog (according to her and me and pretty much the whole universe) en cuanto a linguistics and Spanish, and I am the Alpha-in-training, because she was trying to inspire some confidence in me when I took Hispanic Linguistics and was nervous about speaking spontaneously to the class about such a technical subject. She told me to repeat to myself (inside my head) "Who´s the Alpha Dog? I am!" in order to pump myself up and such before talking in front of peeps in Spanish. It has helped, I´ll tell you! and
(B) apparently a reader of my blog (while I´m in Spain at least) which makes me a little chagrined, since I tend to use the curse-words more than a little frequently, with the assumption that the only people reading this already know I´m a pottymouth. Well, now Alpha is in the loop too.

Onwards and upwards... I went to La Granja today. It is a royal palace and gardens that look like this:
Here is a website about it for those of you who read Spanish, and for those of you who don´t, there are still some cool pictures! http://www.rurismo.com/pueblo/pueblo.asp?poblacion=8777

It was incredibly beautiful, and is only about 20 minutes by bus from Segovia--a busride which costs a mere €1.08, I´ll have you know. La Granja is gorgeous: filled with acres of hedges and flowers and statues and statuaries, not to mention the incredible palace--fully appointed--and the breathtaking mountians in the background. The place (yes, I meant place, not p-a-lace) was built in the early 18th century (that´s the 1700s, you guys) by Felipe V (which we say en español "Felipe Quinto," which sounds funny said aloud and amuses me, although not as much as Carlos Quinto. That´s just hilarious. Ah, the alliteration...). This is what his rich, sissy ass looked like:


OMG, I´m so glad the 18th century is over. Except for the gardens, of course, which were so much more amazing than the palace, as beautiful as the palace was. I think I´ll go back for a second gander in the gardens, because there is a hedge maze I didn´t get to see, and lots and lots of artwork in the forest that I didn´t have time for, either. Plus, now I have a bus schedule, so I don´t have to worry about getting stuck and having to walk 20 miles and then getting sun stroke and dying. And all because I wanted to walk in a hedge maze.

In other news, classes are fine. I love my professor (singular, because I dropped the theatre class, but that´s a story for another post), and I love the subject, and I love being able to walk in and around and on and through the subject. It´s good to be here while studying "here" as a topic. Spain has so much history, and so much culture, and it´s just amazing. My señora told me they found human remains from Roman times underneath the city when they were constructing a parking garage a few years ago. And I´m sure it´s not the first time; Spain has had people in it for like at least 4,000 years. It´s freaking amazing. The Phoenicians came here a bajillion years ago and the iberocelts were already like, "Wassup, homies? You want to grow some olives here? That´s cool. We got this whole sheep raising thing going on, but whatevs. Oh, and you have wine! That´s a neat idea. You guys can hang with us, but you have to worship bulls. Okay?" And it just got crazier from there, I tell you. It´s so cool.

Also, next time I´m writing about Salamanca, which--I have decided--is one of the coolest places I´ve ever been. Hope y´all are well. Happy July.

Putas Rumanas; or La Vida Española, Part 2

Fucking gypsies.

That´s right; you people all heard me; I got robbed! ROBBED, I tell you! What a bunch o´crap. Don´t you all worry; I´m okay.

I should back up, and tell you what transpired.

So. We arrived in Segovia yesterday (Friday) midday from Madrid, a mere hour bus ride. My señora, Amparo, picked me up at the bus station and took me to her beautiful flat near the Plaza Mayor from which one can see the Cathedral looming large. It is simply perfect. Amparo is pretty much the nicest Spanish woman ever (but then again, aren´t they all?); she lives alone with one very friendly cat named Boni (like as in pretty); she has one son who is in his twenties and lives in London (or Londres, as they say in español). She works in a travel agency and she is just so nice. And she makes great food. For lunch (el comer) she made a salad with just iceberg lettuce and tomato, but then she added little slivers of watermelon, and then salt and olive oil. It was so awesomely awesome.

Aaaaaaanyway, after we ate, I took a little siesta, having had almost no sleep the night before (it´s almost impossible to sleep without my husband). I woke up with the breeze coming in my window, the cat staring at me from my desk, and all seemed right with the world. So I went out and walked down to the aqueduct where I met up with the rest of the group. My professors gave us a great tour of Segovia, from the Alcázar (the castle where Isabel and Ferdinand lived and the real inspiration for Walt Disney´s princess castle--contrary to the popular legend that his castle was inspired by Neuschwannstein (dunno if I spelled that correctly) in Germany) to the aqueduct. It was extremely hot, but in Spain one just sort of ignores the heat in favor of more alluring foci of attention, like refrescos, and frescoes, and old buildings, and synogogues, and churches, and shops, and chocolate, and coffee (which my señora has in abundance, thanks be to God!), and all that.

After the tour, some of the other chicas on the trip that I am becoming friends with and I decided to take a little break and sit in a café. I split a chocolate ice cream with my friend, Brittney, and we just chilled, about 8 of us.

After the tasty break, we took a stroll past this feria de libros, or open air book fair. I was really jazzed because I thought I might find some cheaper books there (books are expensive in Spain, by and large). I was at the booth of this woman who was selling children´s books, mostly. I was asking her a question when this little girl, no more than 13 years old, kind of sidled up to me and bumped into me, trying to look at some teeny-bopper looking shit in the booth. I looked at her when she brushed me, and she turned away. I continued asking my question to the dueña (shopkeeper).

Aaaaanyway, not more than two minutes later, I had turned away from the booth and we were walking back towards the aqueduct. All of a sudden I noticed that my little purse was sticking out a little bit from the top of my bigger purse, and I suddenly had this drop in my stomach with the sudden knowledge that someone had been in my purse. And I checked to see that my wallet was still there and--big surprise--that little gypsy punk girl had stolen it right out of my zipped purse. She had tried to take the other little purse in there too (containing only incidentals--toiletries and the like), but hadn´t been able to fit it through the little opening she had made when she managed to wheedle my zipper open a little. ¡Puta verdadera! In Segovia they call these girls rumanos; I´m not sure exactly why, but it means gypsy/transient. Anyway, all she got was some Listerine breathmints, about €25 cash, my ATM Fifth-Third card, my driver´s license (which is about to expire anyway), my student ID card from UofL as well as the International one. So I borrowed some money from one of the other girls, went to this internet café, found the number of the bank, called the bank, cancelled the ATM card, went back online to get the PIN number for my other (UofL) card, went to the ATM and got out more cash with my UofL debit card. Fortunately, my passport was back at home with my extra credit cards. The only thing truly lost was my international student ID card. So no more museum discounts. Boo. And I´ll have to get a new UofL student ID, which costs $3 or something. And I had to get a new driver´s license anyway, so whatevs.

Anyway. Thus concludes the tale of my first 9 hours in Segovia. How ironic it is that I spent all week in Madrid (gigantic city with more people, crime, danger, whatever) without any problem, and as soon as I get to Segovia, I get my sorry ass robbed. Sonuvabitch. Furthermore, how many freaking countries have I been to, with nary a problem? I guess it was just my time. It could´ve been worse. I´m glad I didn´t lose my passport. Qué será, será, and all that.

Well. Since then, everything has been uphill. (This is funny if you know Segovia, wherein everything literally is either uphill or downhill--great for the gams and thighs, eh? Not to mention the glutes.) As I said, my señora is really wonderful and is going to try to find Brittney (remember: ice cream friend) and me a cheap hostel that is nice and safe in Barcelona when we go on our long weekend right before my birthday (our free travel weekend is July 19-23). Since she´s a travel agent, Amparo has a nice hook-up in Barcelona who can help us out, hopefully. And she likes me a lot because my Spanish is good and she can tell I´m smart. And I like her because I can tell she is smart, and elegant, and motherly. She gave me an umbrella to use today because it rained! How thoughtful. Which was awesome because it was stiflingly hot earlier. I went out with two other friends, Vanessa (from Cincinnati!) and Andrea, at 10 am and we walked all the way around Segovia like three times. At about noon, noon-thirty we stopped to have a Coke in the Plaza Mayor, and it was SO BRIGHT. And HOT. We returned to our homes in time for lunch at 2:30 (I went home a little early) and right after I got home it started pouring rain. The wind was pretty fierce too, and Amparo was late getting home because she got stuck in a store during the downpour. When we did eat at about 3:15, we had these awesome grilled-cheese-sandwiches-crossed-with-french-toast kind of things. I´m totally making them when I get home.

We will have dinner at 9:30, which is actually kind of early for Spaniards. But Amparo likes to go out for long walks at night, so maybe I´ll go with her tonight. Or maybe I´ll stay in and do the copious amounts of homework that I still have. Hmm...

I miss you all so much. I hope you are doing well. I will try to figure out if I can upload pictures at this internet café, so you can see what Segovia looks like.

La Vida Espanola parte 1

Hola de Espana! Forgive me; I'm using a PC laptop from one of the other students and I don't know how to make it do tildes or accents or upside down exclamation points. So, ghetto Spanish.

So here I am. After one painful, coffee-deprived day of jet-lag, we had our first day of classes yesterday (Monday), and they went really well. I think I will like my classes a LOT. I get to do a project, for example, on a photography exhibition at La Academia de las Bellas Artes the theme of which is the transition from fascism to democracy in Spain in the 1970s during the fall of Franco and the restoration of the crown. Yay! I also get to do a presentation on the effectiveness (or lack thereof) on the smoking ban in Madrid that recently took effect. You'd never know it, though; EVERYONE smokes in cafes, bars, restaurants, the subway, EVERYWHERE.

And as far as Madrid goes, we're here until Friday, when we go to Segovia to meet our host families and begin the second, "Segovia" part of our trip. I'm looking forward to it, because I can really profundizar (deepen) relationships with Spaniards, whereas in the colegio (boarding school) where we are staying this week in Madrid, there isn't enough time or peace to get to know any other the other kids really well. In fact, the students here are really friendly, and there are all kinds of camps going on, in addition to normal classes. There are high school students who live here normally, plus little little kids age 6 to 10, middle school age kids, and then us, Americna college students. I haven't figured out exactly who is in charge, because while there are lots of programs going on, lots of kids, and college-age counselors directing them, there aren't really any 'adults,' you know? It's sort of like Lord of the Flies, if they had managed to develop some kind of stable society instead of killing Piggy. ("Sucks to your asmar.") The camps are for kids to either learn Spanish or English, and they are boisterous, noisy bunches of kiddoes. But that makes it more like home. They are kind of afraid of us KIIS students when we try to talk to them, though, so I stopped trying. The counselors are really friendly, though. There are these two girls I've made friends with, Ana and Consuelo, and they are supernice and cool. They have given us help with our Spanish and recommendations on what to see in Madrid. It's pretty cool.

Meanwhile, I am also slowly getting to know (and like) the people in my KIIS group a bit better; but unsurprisingly, the people I like best in our group are the professors. They are really nice and funny and they like me because my Spanish is good and I am a good student (unlike most everybody else here who is pretty lazy, in my opinion, and VERY American--in a bad way--about a lot of things... how to act in public being at the top of my list, their complaints about the food, their persistence in speaking English, being a few more...). And since I have been able to talk to a lot of the students at the colegio, I am gaining more confidence every day in my Spanish skills. I was talking to one student last night for a few minutes who thought I was Spanish--and it wasn't the first time. I've been asked by various Spaniards if I am Irish, Belgian, Puerto Rican or Spanish, but I haven't yet been asked if I'm American. No one assumes this of me. I consider it a success. :) I understand about 85 - 95% of everything said to me, so I'm feeling pretty good about things right now. And I really like my classes, although there is a LOT of homework.

So. I'll have more to say when I have more time and energy, but right now I have lots o' homework, and only about 8 hours in which to do it. :) I miss you all, and yes, I'm alive, so don't worry. I'm walking a lot, too, which feels GREAT! At least 3 or 4 miles a day so far. Woo hoo!